Borders are strange things. Sometimes the only clue you’ve passed from one country to another is when your phone stops working as it hunts for a new network.
Not in South Korea. When you hit the demilitarised zone that separates it from the north, you know all about it. The DMZ spans 160 miles from coast to coast, and it’s almost three miles wide. OK, so you don’t hit a giant wall as you approach, or suddenly become besieged by suicide drones (yep, they’re a thing), but everything feels a little… other.
